The crisp-crusted, fresh-tomato-slicked vital intelligence came to me the way the very best gossip always does in Soho: while I was having my hair cut. Those boys know what’s going on: the openings, the closures, who’s doing what to whom and when. A new pizza place called Breadstall had just opened down the street, Erminio said, while attending to a client in the next chair. And it’s good. Filipe, who looks after me (and Giorgio Locatelli, as it happens) agreed. You should never ignore a tip from your hairdresser, especially one about good pizza. I went to take a look.