Giacomo Andreocci, who runs a small organic farm in the hills north of Rome, said he feel like part of a dying breed — thanks to a chocolate spread loved by millions.
The land around where he farms in the municipality of Vignanello used to be planted with a diverse mix including olives, vines and hazelnuts.
But lately, under a drive by Ferrero, the Italian company that makes Nutella, many of the surrounding valleys have been turned over to intensive hazelnut farming, with monoculture plantations replacing grassy pastures, small farms and rows of vines.
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