Danny Meyer has always been considered one of the most forward-thinking restaurateurs of his generation.

Even by his standards, though, the owner of such celebrated New York restaurants as Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern and The Modern (at the Museum of Modern Art) has just taken an incredibly brave step. He has announced his decision to abolish tipping in his restaurants and increase prices accordingly. His peers salute him but are grateful that it is he who has taken the step rather than them.

Tipping is terribly misunderstood. In most of Europe, Australia and other parts of the world it no longer exists — and visitors from those countries earn an unwarranted reputation for meanness when they, in their ignorance, fail to tip in Britain and the US.