Sparkling wine is presenting champagne with more and more of a challenge. If price is no object, Selfridges has a very good champagne range but for value plus quality, Lea & Sandeman (020 7244 0522) is difficult to beat. It can offer even better prices than those below for orders of six bottles or more. Vine Trail (0117 921 1770) specialises in the glory of champagnes from small growers rather than big houses.
Valli Unite, Brut & The Beast 2011 Piemonte
Pale honey colour for this unusual, very lightly sparkling northwest Italian. Appley and then so powerfully umami that I was transported to Japan. Very light and refreshing, this is a wine you could drink any time. Fades fast but such fun! 13%
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